Welcome to the Toutle Valley!
I'm starting this blog to help visitors find the many things to do around Mount St. Helens and the Toutle Valley. Our area is surrounded by adventure, high and low, but it's sometimes genuinely hard to find information about these special places. Before our volcano erupted, the Spirit Lake Hwy followed the Toutle River all the way to Spirit Lake and Mount St. Helens with easy-to-find adventure around every bend. The route was lined with campgrounds, river access, logging roads, trails open to all, and vast areas to explore.
Today its different--With all the passes, permits, and rules, it's a tangle of red tape to just understand where you can go for a walk. Don't dispair! I know all the secrets... and I might even be asking for your help to make the area more accessible.
Consider this blog your Insider's Guide to the Toutle Valley.
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July 28, 2023 08:59:53
Posted By Toutle Trekker
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The Gifford Pinchot National Forest, which includes all of the Mount St. Helens area, is asking for comments on its trails system. I have been thinking and discussing and planning and considering trail improvements in the Toutle Valley for decades, so I am pretty excited about this opportunity to engage. However, I have approached the Forest Service before, so I have pretty low expectations about any on-the-ground improvements happening quickly (or at all?) The comment period just closed.
KEY IMPROVEMENT IDEAS
- Official trailheads on the west side of the Monument (213, 217, 216G, Castle Lake road route) NEED public access easements. To access these trailheads you must purchase a $350 Weyerhaeser permit (213 and 217) or rely on the "generosity" of the company to keep roads open (216G and Castle Lake).
- A great new trail could be created parallel to the Spirit Lake Highway just inside the Monument Boundary using old logging roads. The trail would start at Coldwater Lake, link with the Castle Lake and Elk Rock Viewpoints, and then drop down to the Mount St. Helens Wildlife Area in the valley below, all on old logging roads. It could then continue on public land to the sediment dam and exit near the Green River. What a great opportunity for a multi-use trail for hiking, biking, cross country skiing, even horses and ebikes.
- Castle Lake Trail 221 needs to be re-built and re-routed. It's abandoned and unmaintained. The closed and blocked gravel road to the lake needs to be converted to an official trail.
- Re-connect Coldwater Ridge (and the Mount St Helens Institute) with the Mount Margaret backcountry trails system using the Minnie Peak route (historic Trail 212) . Before the eruption several trails here connected to the Mount Margaret area. The existing route along Coldwater Lake and up to Snow Lake is brushy, steep, long, and prone to landslides. The historic route is much more stable. This link would also create a great loop opportunity, and provide a winter snowshoe or crosscountry ski route on logging roads near the Coldwater Complex.
- Build the Falls Creek Trail as planned. Before the eruption THREE trails (212, 246, 213) connected the Green River trails to Mount Margaret. After the eruption, none of these connections were rebuilt. Instead the access was supposed to be replaced by a new trail along Falls Creek, but the trail was NEVER BUILT, leaving the north side of the Monument isolated, and the trailheads landlocked by private timber companies.

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April 20, 2023 01:50:29
Posted By Toutle Trekker
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Southwest Washington has a spectacular opportunity to convert the old Columbia & Cowlitz Railroad into a centerpiece trail. This 7-mile route would connect Longview and Kelso with Interstate 5 and Castle Rock at Ostrander. The trail's stunning features would attract visitors from far and wide. Much of the route borders the Cowlitz River, and it crosses on a high bridge with abutting trestles and views galore. This crowning jewel--the bridge across the Cowlitz--is also the main obstacle keeping the trail from becoming a reality. No single agency wants the costs associated with the structure (The line itself would be donated). In a county with high obesity rates and low activity levels, a place to walk, run, bicycle, or enjoy the outdoors is drastically needed. This opportunity of a generation could slip away if people do not care to improve, and are satisfied with the "status quo". A few elected folks are actively against the trail. Yes, there are challenges with such an undertaking, but rail-trails abound in the state and across the country, even in similar communities, bringing economic diversity, health improvements, and quality of life. If you are in Cowlitz County, contact your Commissioner and urge him to support the rail to trail proposal. Do not forget to contact the state senator for the Longview area. Tell these representatives we do not want to be known as an unhealthy and undesireable community. We must start moving toward a better future.
Cowlitz County Board of Commissioners | Cowlitz County, WA - Official Website
Washington State Legislature - Member Email
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March 14, 2023 01:19:53
Posted By Toutle Trekker
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The final comments have been tallied, and the answer is "More Fees and Higher Fees" to enjoy our public lands. (Is anyone surprised?)
Gifford Pinchot National Forest - Home (usda.gov)
However, it could have been worse. Last fall, I encouraged folks to comment on the ills of fees, especially the chaos and confusion that will come with having two different passes on the stretch of road between Coldwater Lake and Johnston Ridge. The Forest Service seriously wanted a per vehicle parking pass for all the trailheads and a per-person entry pass for the visitor center, or something along those lines--it was so confusing I can't even remember exactly.
That has been toned down a little bit. It looks like they are going to increase the entry fee at Johnston Ridge to $12 per person, and require a NW Forest Pass or America the Beautiful Pass or a $5 daily parking pass at Coldwater Lake, the Hummocks Trail, and the Science and Learning Center. They also want to charge you $7 per person per night to camp in the Mount Margaret backcountry, and they upped the price to $20 per person to climb our volcanoes (Adams and St. Helens). The law that allows these passes actually requires sites to have facilities like restrooms or picnic areas with garbage cans. A few commenters (like me) pointed this out, some with lawyer-like detail, so that might have saved South Coldwater trailhead and a few other places without facilities. I don't know of any plans to add a restroom to the Hummocks Trail as required, but hey, laws usually don't slow the Forest Service bureaucracy down. Oh, and the restroom at Coldwater Lake has been out-of-order since the fall.,,,
P.S. The best way to skip some of the fee hassle is to purchase a yearly $80 America the Beautiful Pass. These can be bought at Johnston Ridge when you arrive. It can be used to get into the Johnston Ridge Visitor Center and as a window parking pass all through the USA at nearly any federal fee site. Better yet, bring up a senior citizen to purchase their lifetime pass, and take grandma to the mountains. Each pass lets in three people (at least it did--I wouldn't be surprised if they got rid of that, too.)
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February 8, 2023 05:32:06
Posted By Toutle Trekker
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Back when I was a kid, I testified in front of a Colonel Friedenwald of the Army Corps of Engineers in Longview, Wa. My Grandma stood up, too. Cousins, my mother, and other Toutle citizens, bravely testified against a project that was popular in that city. We were fighting to save our river. The Army Corps was proposing a huge dam across the North Toutle River to trap sediment that was washing into the Cowlitz and Columbia Rivers. The dam would irreparably alter the Toutle Valley, force out one of the last homestead families, and cut off salmon and steelhead from vital spawning streams. Yes, the eruption had damaged the river, but we could see, even back then, that the river could heal itself. A local engineer and author, Alden Jones, gave tours to officials to highlight the natural recovery already taking place in the early 1980's. Nature had done it with past eruptions, and it was fully capable of recovery if given a chance.
But the needs of downstream shipping channels and towns were much more important that the future of the upper Toutle watershed.
We put all our efforts into stopping the sediment dam, and (not recognizing our own impotence and insignificance) the Toutle community didn't push for mitigation for the permanent impacts of the dam. The Reagan administration specifically refused to fund any mitigation, so it was passed onto the state and local partners, then ultimately mostly ignored. (see my post Timber Giant Blocks Legal Public Access, June 2021)
Today you can hike across the dam and see first hand the huge sediment plain that was once the Toutle River Valley. My previous post 'sediment dam hike' has the details.
Our fruitless battle was fought before some of the region's salmon, steelhead, and other river-dependent species were listed under the Endangered Species Act. I would like to believe that things would be different today.
We may have a chance to find out. The law that guided the Army Corps is set to be reviewed in 2035 and a new "cooperative" approach is being tried. The idea is to bring all parties together and work toward common goals that take into account community, economic, recreation, habitat and safety needs. The group is managed by the William D. Ruckelshaus center and it is called the SLTCRC: Spirit Lake/Toutle-Cowlitz River Collaborative. I'm not part of the group, but I'm keeping a close watch on their activities. Hopefully, this time around, the future upper Toutle River will not be sacrificed further, but I'm not holding my breath.
April 2023 update: I attended a two day workshop with the group to comment and advocate for recreational access, but am not a part of it...yet. May 5 update: opps, I lied. Now I am involved in a workgroup.
Check it out:
Spirit Lake/Toutle-Cowlitz River Collaborative (SLTCRC) | The William D. Ruckelshaus Center | Washington State University (wsu.edu)
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January 15, 2023 10:58:57
Posted By Toutle Trekker
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The Department of Natural Resources, which oversees most state land as well as all our navigible and saltwater areas, is working with a consultant to write a statewide Outdoor Access and Responsible Recreation plan. I've reached out to the lead with some of my findings on landlocked state land, which you can see detailed in my posts under "land access". According a study by OnX Company, the state of Washington has 316,000 acres of landlocked state land. We need to start with obtaining legal public access to this land! Right here in the Toutle Valley the DNR has 35,000 acres of landlocked state land where access is controlled by the largest landowner in the United States--Weyerhaeuser Timberlands. We need Access First! Basic legal access is required and needed before any facilities can even be considered. Information about public meetings is here:
Outdoor Access and Responsible Recreation Strategic Plan | WA - DNR
The Forest Service is modernizing the Northwest Forest Plan. Mount St. Helens, which had their 1985 plan rolled into the Forest Plan has never been updated. My biggest comment would be "a little less talk (or study) and alot more action (on the ground)". Geologic time moves faster than the Forest Service! As an example, Mount St Helens was erupting in 1985, went dormant for over 20 years, started erupting again and then went back to sleep, all while the USFS was stuck in the past. Comment by February 2.
US Forest Service NEPA Projects Home (usda.gov)
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